Wednesday, January 14, 2015

Hampi - Bicycle diaries

Visiting places of cultural and historical importance had always been high on my list. But unfortunately, this plan never got materialized. So this year , we (me, Alok and Wardy) decided to cover nearby places in backpacking mode. Hampi was our first destination.

Backpacking is fun where you don't have to be constantly worried about the huge amount of luggage you have to carry for the vacations. Just one pair of clothes , one bedsheet maybe and you are ready to go.

We set out on a Saturday evening from Hyderabad for Hampi. There is a direct train which takes you to Hospet while you sleep in the night.

The winters are not generally very cold in the peninsular India and you won't expect same in January. But since last 2-3 years the temperatures have been dropping (climate change maybe ) in this part of the country as well. Luckily we had blankets with us so we could brave the cold winds coming through the windows.

We reached Hospet around 7 in the morning.  Hampi is situated around 12 km from Hospet. The current area comes under Bellary district in Karnataka but few hundred years back it was the capital of one of the most powerful and prosperous Vijayanagara kingdom. Now only the ruins remain of that prosperous city and these spread a few square kilometers and have been classified as UNESCO world heritage site.


The starting point of any Hampi tour is from the famous Virupaksha temple. A huge and magnificent Shiva temple with imposing gopurams or the gateways and large courtyards and multiple structures make it different from the other temples of the region. The sculpture on the temple walls is very elaborate and impressive. The paintings on the roof of the main mandapa with the colors still as bright makes one wonder how these have survived the test of time. The temple is still in a working condition where the worship of deities regularly happens.

Coming out of the temple we had two objectives - find a place to eat and find a shop which rents Luna. The sites of Hampi are scattered which gives you the option of visiting them through a Luna, bicycle or an auto. We chose the least comfortable but most enjoyable - bicycles. Well, because our first choice Luna was not available due to some temporary ban on them and because you don't travel in an auto when you are in backpacking mode. So bicycles it was.

After having a delicious breakfast of idlis and puris ( a must have if you are here in the morning) with tea, we set out to explore the ruins of this once prosperous city. The uneven, slopy and sometimes rocky roads of Hampi were a test for the various muscles in the body which had been lying inactive due to the sedentary lifestyle we have become accustomed to. Nevertheless, after a while the body adapted to this challenge and riding bicycle through fields, rocks, ruins was a delightful experience.

Locals say that it would take a minimum of 2 months to explore each and every detail of Hampi, such is the vastness and extent of this city. No wonder a lot of foreign tourists throng this part of the country, many actually living here for months, to get a better understanding of the various sites. But since we did not have the luxury of staying there for 2 days, let alone 2 months, we covered the major and more popular structures like the Underground temple, Lakshmi Narsimha temple, Vittala temple etc.



One common feature of all the structures was the use of large pieces of stones, usually granite which is present in large amount due to the rocky terrain, in constructing the walls and the roofs of the temples and buildings. There is an absence of any cement or mortar or any binding material which are so common in the buildings of our times. One wonders and appreciates the sophisticated architectural skills which our ancestors had mastered hundred of years back. Another remarkable feature one finds is the multiple figures in one structure i.e one can see a lion, a horse, a monkey in the same structure, depending on how it is being viewed. Marvelous indeed.  

By noon, we were back to where we started and started for the next phase of the journey. Hampi is situated on the banks of river Tungabhadra which divides the city into two parts. While one part houses all the ruins and temple structures, the other part has the various resorts and restaurants where one can sit back and relax. One needs to cross the river in a motor boat or a circular boat which is rowed manually.

We decided to have lunch in a Tibetan restaurant, just next to the lane after crossing the river. One thing that will appeal you most here and which definitely impressed us most was the ambience of this place. The location of the restaurant overlooking the paddy fields and green surroundings gives a peaceful and relaxed feeling. And to top it, the food was also very nice. Three hours passed by without even noticing.

By evening we were back to Hospet railway station to catch the train back to Hyderabad. The whole day was so eventful with so many things packed up but still it felt that there was more to Hampi.If given a chance each one of us wanted to come back again here. And stay. This was my second visit to Hampi, and it appears  there can be many more.

Photo courtsey : Rohit

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